1000 Places To See Before You Die

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

Trip to Tirupati - Survival Guide

Tirupati Pilgrimage - Things you need to know:

Just returned from a trip to the Tirupati (temple of Lord Balaji). This has been a trip which was getting unduly postponed over the past year. So my wife and I feel very satisfied, having made the trip this week. I had to do a little running around to find out more about how to do this trip, so I think, jotting down some tips would be of use to other enthusiasts. If you plan to go from Bangalore, it is best to take the package tour offered by KSTDC. Inspite of several little inconviniences, it is by and large the most comfortable deal to go to Tirupati. Especially given the fact that getting darshan is the most difficult of tasks in the main temple.
Our journey began on Sunday (April 29) Night from Badami House, Bangalore. We had booked our tickets 2 weeks in advance. Here's a quick checklist of what the package offers for INR 1320.00/head:
+ Bus Ride (round trip) in Air-Conditioned Volvo Bus.
+ Accomodation for 2 hours - Only to freshen up and bathe.
+ Visit to Padmavati temple (foot hills; Cost of sarva darshan INR 25.00/head not included in the package fare).
+ Breakfast point (Cost of breakfast to be borne by the pax. NOT INCLUDED IN THE PACKAGE FARE).
+ Ride to foot hills bus terminus (Here they switch buses from VOLVO to regular dilapidated APSTDC buses. The argument - a rather lame one - given is that the VOLVOs cannot climb the ghats, so the passengers are transferred to the other buses. But It looks like an obvious financial arrangement where the AP buses also get to benefit. Because the same VOLVO buses climb on some hilly routes in the north without issues).
+ After about 50 minutes of climbing you reach the top of the hill.
+ Here I was surprised to see extreme commercialization at every nook and corner.
+ We all assebmbled at a point where we kept our footwear and then walked a good half a kilometre to the main shrine.
+ We reached the gates around 9:15 am and then around 10:10 am we were ushered in (a separte queue for KSTDC tourists - that was definitely a WOW factor) and around 12:35 pm, we finally got darshan after much pushing and jostling.
+ We started our descent around 1:00 pm and then our return journey (back in VOLVO) around 2:00 pm.
+ Stopped for a late lunch at around 4:00 pm (45 minutes approx.)
+ Re-started journey and reached Bangalore at 8:15 PM on Monday (April 30).

The high points of the trip:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Very well organized by KSTDC - good timing.
2. Assured darshan of the lord within 1-3 hours inspite of the maddening rush.
3. Comfortable Bus ride in VOLVO.
4. Reasonably clean rooms in the dormitory for freshening up/bath.
5. Excellent arrangement for collection of Laddoos. You get 2 laddoos per ticket (and may I add, that they are definitely the MOST DELICIOUS laddoos that you can lay your hands on. The Tirupati Laddoos are very famous.) And you get *ONLY* one extra laddoo per ticket at an additional cost of Rs.30.00.
6. Good Value for money.
7. Time Saver (it was exactly 24 hour round trip from Home to Home).

The low points of the trip:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Stops for food ONLY at hotels which have an *arrangement* with KSTDC. These places have very bad service. Especially the breakfast point at Hotel Bhima Residency - service is horrible - you almost get the feeling that they are doing you a great favor by serving you food. And Toilets are filthy. Even the lucn stopover was too late because of a similar *tie-up*. This was some place called Nandini garden. Once again horrible service. When asked for the menu, it was simply *TOSSED* at us. I am glad they didnt toss the food at us right from the kitchen :-)
2. Surprisingly, there were no toilets in the whole route (even in petrol pumps - the driver just refused to stop saying that there are no such facilities in ANY petrol pumps en-route) and also the ones in and around the main temple are in very bad shape. For the amount of money TTD makes, I think the can invest some more in these basic infrastructure for the pilgrims which would be much appreciated.. So it can be especially problematic for female travellers. Our menfolk anyway are known to relieve themselves just about anywhere!!
3. The queue management leaves a lot to be desired. In the end, i.e. it all boils down to jostling, punching, elbowing basically the survival of the fittest. If this is how it has to be in the end, then why go through the elaborate headache of arranging queues in the first place?

Having said that, I must also add that looking at the masses thronging the shrine, it is indeed not all that easy to manage the crowds and ensure a safe darshan for all. On that note I guess I must give a lot of credit to the TTD management.

Some Useful Tips:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Carry sufficient snacks. We did not know about the late lunch but were saved because we were carrying some fruits and snacks. Else we would have starved.
2. Take bottled water, because the water hygene of the hotels is questionable.
3. Blankets are *NOT* provided in THIS package deal. So carry a thick bed-sheet or shawl for the night. Else you will not be able to relax in the Airconditioning.
4. Try not to carry expensive electronics like cellphones/cameras, etc. because you will have to leave them behind and there is a chance of losing them.

5 Comments So Far. - POST COMMENTS:

gsha said...

After reading your blog, I have decided to go to Tirupati. Its very well documented and I feel it clarifies a lot of queries and helps one to be well prepared.

Keep up the good work ;-)

gsha

loveleen said...

andy i am going to be in bangalore from 18h to 28th june for my exams.. have allowed myself four days in bangalore after the exam..do u think it wud be a gud idea to visit tirupati at tht time?

TravelPaisa said...

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Sudheendhar said...

That's a wonderful depiction of the trip. Well, I would like to present another depiction as well - from a perspective of a guy who was born near the hills and now stays in Bangalore!

First make out if the trip is going to be dedicated to the divinity, perhaps a single-day trip to the shrine or if you want to make a weekend count. For the first, I feel it's best to follow the one above. I have seen people go to Tirumala for a darshan; but it's worth a trip too for a good getaway. Here's how:

1. Reaching Tirumala:
If you plan to explore on your own without a package then:
Bangalore - Tirupati - Alipiri - Road/Walk to Tirumala

Take a bus to Tirupati. If you had boarded an AP bus, you could request the driver to drop you at Alipiri - the foot of the hills - the starting point. If you can't then get to the Tirupati busstand. At the busstand, there are plenty of budget hotels where you can re-energise yourselves. But if you dont mind that extra bucks for a good rejuvenation from the tiring hot journey, Hotel Sindhura Park and Hotel Kalyan Residency* in about a kms radius from the busstand offer a great refreshment. Then, make your way till Alipiri - you have both state and town services for that. You could also bargain an auto-rickshaw for less than 40 rupees - worth the trip. This is the base of the hills. It's the startpoint or rather the entry point to the hills. If you would like some trekking, take the stairway. But beware its a tough job that takes around 3 hours for an amateur! And, also note that you can drop your luggage with the carrier service at the entry-point for the steps which will safely put your luggage at the exit-point in Tirumala from where you can take them back. If you don't want to take this, then the best option than taking the buses would be to share a jeep to the hills. They give you a wonderful experience. Lots of private jeeps keep plying to-and-fro the hilltop - so you could share one if you stand by the road side - a little yards further on the road, in the direction of the front side of Garuda's statue. I guess it costs around 30 rupees per person uphill; if you would not like to share then you could negotiate a price for 5 persons and have the ride for yourself. Now you reach Tirumala.

2. Accomodation:

PLEASE MAKE NOTE that accomodation without prior RESERVATION is almost impossible! Fortunately TTD has opened up the online booking - the site is - http://www.ttdsevaonline.com/eBooking/BookingHome.aspx
If you could carry an MP/MLA recommendation letter for accomodation too - it works; you will have to go to the office near the busstand and get the accomodation registered - and of course, it's a little painstaking process.

3. Darshan:
You have many SUDARSHAN counters that tie the darshan-bands - that is, the time for your darshan is stamped and tied to your hand after you make the payment at the counters. The darshan ranges from free(longest and most tiring that may also last for more than 8 hrs!) to around 500 rupees, if I am right - we usually go for the 100 rupees ones as they are the ones that give you the feel! These counters are also available at Tirupati bus-stand, Alipiri base. You can get the bands with time of your choice subject on availability.

4. TIPS:
After the darshan, do not forget to walk around Tirumala, it's one place where serenity is in it's full glow, preserved by the divinity. It's not a very big place too....A walk through is a big solace to the soul. A leisure squat in front of the temple-entry in the evening too is very refreshing - you have a huge LCD screen that telecasts some TTD stuff.

5. OTHER PLACES TO VISIT:
Papavinasanam, Akasaganga are some of the few places which are accessible by free buses and some local trax-services. One place less known and less crowded is the Japali Teertham - you must trek to reach there and it's worth it; the location reminds you of the old hindu mythological locations!

After you are back at Tirupati, ISCKCON right near the base(Alipiri) is a wonderful place to visit. And then you can make your visit to KapilaTheertham - a waterfall which is dry most of the year. Then you could either opt for a night's stay at Tirupati and visit the other shrines - Padmavathi shrine... or make your way back. Kalyan residency is a good option for those who wish to stay in Tirupati - it costs around 1k for a double per night; and in the budget range - hotel Maurya(NOT MAYURA in front of the busstand!) about half-a-km away is a wonderful place to stay - it costs around 300 rupees for a double per night. And beware, the busstand at Tirupati at night is a place to absolutely avoid unless you are travelling out!

budget hotels accommodation in tirupati said...

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