Khajuraho Destination Guide | Reaching Khajuraho

Khajuraho Temple Complex

After the Taj Mahal, the most famous monument in India is the Khajuraho temple complex in Madhya Pradesh, Central India. But for the temples, Khajuraho (literally means garden of dates) would have been one of those small typical Indian villages with little to offer tourists. However, the wonderful and intricately carved temple complex has ensured that the village gets its recognition, fame and its share of tourists – both domestic and International.

The temples at Khajuraho village are renowned for their intricate sculptures. The Khajuraho temple complex is deservedly part of the UNESCO World heritage monuments. Unfortunately, it has been labeled as “Erotic Temples”, which is a sensational and eye grabbing title but does no justice to the art and sculptural extravaganza of the Khajuraho Temples. In reality, only 10% of the sculptures seen at Khajuraho depict sexual themes – quite explicit at that. Apart from the erotic scenes, the sculptures portray day-to-day activities of life. However, it is the sexual element that has caught fancy of the many coffee books on Khajuraho. There are many hypotheses offered that try to explain the presence of these erotic elements. Popular amongst them are:

Chandela rulers who built these temples between 950 AD and 1050 AD were believers in Tantrism. In Tantric cult, sexual gratification (bhoga) is one of the requisite towards attainment of salvation.
It was designed as a means of education for the students (Bramacharis) who spent all their student life with no exposure to worldly affairs
Local legend has it that these temples needed protection against Lightning and to appease Lord Indra, these sexually explicit sculptures were created. (According to Indian mythology, Lord Indra controls lighting and is often portrayed as someone who gives in to desire)

Whatever be the explanation, it is undeniably one of the greatest treasures bequeathed to us by our ancestors celebrating all the joys of life. Instead of providing narration on each of these temples (Click here for more details on the temples) , this article will restrict itself in providing useful tips to the visitor.

Tips to travelers visiting Khajuraho

Accommodation : Being an important tourist destination, there are Hotels for every budget. Please read the details of budget hotels and resorts at Khajuraho.

Reaching Khajuraho:
By Air: There are direct flights from Delhi, Agra and Varanasi. I would suggest traveling by air as the rail and road journey can get to be very cumbersome. Thanks to the budget airlines, flights to Khajuraho is more affordable
By Train: Direct train link to Khajuraho from Jhansi is still under construction. Till the direct train is available, one has to endure five-hour bus journey from Jhansi

Other Tips

The entire complex can be split into three groups – Western group, Eastern group and Southern Group. Amongst these, western group of temples are grand and more popular. The famous Kandariya Mahadev temple with its erotic sculptures is part of the Western group. More sedate Jain temples form the Eastern group. Southern temples are the ones that were built at the fag end of Chandela regime.
It is advisable to hire a Bicycle or moped so that commuting between temples is easier. Normally, it is hot, dry and dusty at Khajuraho.
There are many guides and touts who will persistently request you to hire their service. Most of them are of little value and only add to the nuisance.
The best way to explore Khajuraho temple complex is to start with Western temples and buy “ASI Guidebook to Khajuraho” sold at the ticket counter. The book offers comprehensive information and can be your best companion.
In the evenings (between 6:25 PM – 7:25 PM), Madhya Pradesh Government Sound & Light show featuring all the details of the temple. It is very informative, educating and entertaining. It is hosted at the western group of temples and is a must-see for all tourists.
Shipligram at Khajuraho, a Government run museum, hosting artifacts depicting Indian culture is worth a visit.
Thanks to the influx of foreign tourists, there are many touts offering Yoga classes and an Ayurvedic massage. Unfortunately, most of them are trivial and a waste of money. Entirely avoidable as unqualified people hoping to make a quick buck run them.

Travel Guide by Satish, a resident of Hyderabad